By Victoria Chin and Ana La O'

New York Fashion Week has returned for spring 2007 and so has APA's Magnificent list. APA reviews our favorite spring collections from seven Asian designers.

Autumn in New York. Temperatures drop, leaves fall, and busy city denizens begin to bundle up...everywhere but the runway. From September 8-15, the New York Olympus runway was in full bloom thanks to some spring collections from fashion's finest Asian designers. Spring 2007's runway saw the return of fashion up-and-comers, industry veterans, and CFDA/Vogue Fund finalists Doo.Ri, 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Thakoon Panichgul. (Results come out in November.) Their diverse collections drew inspiration from modern minimalism (Ashish N Soni), spring flowers (Thakoon), and even pirates (yes, you heard it right. If anyone can do it, it's the queen of eclectic, Anna Sui). 

Overall, New York's spring 2007 collections featured designs that packed pretty with a punch. While the runway saw its share of dreamy dresses in bright whites accented with dainty detailing, it also featured a plethora of shorter skirts, bolder prints (especially in black and white), as well as some rather voluminous silhouettes and playful larger-than-life rosettes. This spring is all about making a statement with a touch of wit and drama. While we'd like to applaud each bold and fabulous designer that hit the runway, we only had room for seven. Without further adieu, APA presents Spring 2007's Magnificent Seven. -Ana La O' 

3.1 Phillip Lim: Phillip Lim's crucial sophomore collection was nothing short of divine, as was indicated by its primarily white palette and blithe, flowing pieces. The show encapsulated last season's trends – voluminous dresses, jumpers, and two pieces in fall's well-received navy blue, to name a few – and made them appropriate for spring with light fabrics like crepe de chine, tulle, and cotton voile. Handmade rosettes were a recurring motif throughout the show, appearing on knee-length coats, dresses, and tops, while other pieces also featured pleats and delicate embroidery. Lim did a wonderful job of implementing these complex details with an air of simplicity and chic. Clearly not one to skimp on the niceties, accessories were notable as well. There were blue suede shoes, small suede duffels in the shape of a classic Vuitton speedy, and beaded gold hoop earrings from his collaborative jewelry collection with Bing Bang. Lim's spring collection showed his ability to incorporate intricate details without overshadowing the coherent fluidity and softness of his pieces, all the while remaining on trend. – Victoria Chin

http://www.31philliplim.com/

Thakoon Panichgul: Delicate peonies and roses got a structured makeover in Thakoon Panichgul's spring 2007 collection. Using heavy taffeta and organza, the Thai-born designer created layered pink petal skirts as well as shift and full-length evening dresses accented with rosebud sleeves. Although Panichgul certainly experimented with new floral embellishments this season, his collection still featured some of his signature minimalism. Simple mini dresses with puffed sleeves and spaghetti straps as well as structured quarter sleeve jackets and skinny pants graced the runway in a palette of sunshine yellow, matte and metallic creams, and classic crisp black and white. However, Panichgul's most intriguing pieces used fun bubble hems and striking trapeze silhouettes. One of his most memorable pieces was an almost theatrical light pink trapeze dress with contrasting vertical strips of dark pink fabric and a pink ruffle collar. Overall, Panichgul's spring line offers simplicity and playful drama. – Ana La O'

http://www.thakoon.com/

Vivienne Tam:  Vivienne Tam's signature “China chic” met the swingin' sixties for her spring 2007 show. The Canton-born, Hong Kong-raised fashion veteran presented a “jade”-themed collection featuring a range of retro shift and baby-doll dresses perfect for day or night. The show opened with gold-brocade and metallic pearl dresses, but soon transitioned to bright printed and solid mini-dresses, embellished with intricate cutwork and ribbon appliqué. Known for her East meets West aesthetic, Tam also presented sheaths with large oriental-inspired blossom prints and Chinese characters. Dresses were sometimes paired with vintage inspired quarter length sleeve mini jackets and coats. With her palette of soothing creams as well as bolder lime and lavender, Tam's line offers flirty, fun alternatives to the popular neutral apparel of this year's spring season. – Ana La O'

http://www.viviennetam.com/vt.html

Derek Lam: For the spring, Lam took a casual approach to daywear with loose silhouettes and relaxed prints such as subdued plaids and textured Missoni-esque stripes. Staples included loose cuffed trousers, flowing silk dresses, and unrestricting tunics that could double as shirts or dresses. Though the pants were for the most part shapeless, Lam showed off his distinguished tailoring skills in a grey high-waisted A-line skirt with pleats at the top, and a few sophisticated choices for spring outerwear. One knee-length coat stood out from the rest: its white on white plaid print might be mistaken for Burberry at a glance, but its sleek graphic cut, three quarter sleeves, and grey trim made it distinctly his. For eveningwear, floor-length color-block gowns in shades of green and brown caught the eye, but it was the braided one-shouldered masterpieces, like last season's, that truly stole the show. Lam's spring collection exuded the cool confidence required for his audience of A-listers, including Ashton Kutcher, Demi Moore, Kanye West, Editor-In-Chief of Vogue Anna Wintour, and socialite/cosmetics heiress Olivia Chantecaille.- Victoria Chin

http://www.dereklam.com/

Anna Sui: Anna Sui has always been an outlier in New York fashion, and rightly so. This spring, she seems to have been inspired by pirates, Marie Antoinette, tablecloths, and doll clothes – unless you can think of a better way to explain three-cornered hats, bold stripes, full skirts with layers of net underneath, and tea-time dresses. But somehow, it all worked, as it has for the past two decades. Her usual multitude of prints included florals, zebra, black and white stripes, and patchwork in a variety of bold colors. The show featured several pretty A-line dresses that fell mid-thigh, perfect for this season's rising hemlines. Loose, white eyelet dresses similar to those that were hugely popular this past spring also appeared. Though we didn't see any standout accessories like last season's antiqued knee-high boots, the torn fishnet leggings and crocheted chokers with dangling baubles both made a splash. Sui's eclectic customers may not always have a clear idea of what look they're going for, but onlookers will always know that their look is unmistakably Anna. And with fashion heavyweights like Mischa Barton, Sofia Coppola, and designer Todd Oldham in attendance, Sui need not worry about fitting in with the crowd.- Victoria Chin 

http://www.annasui.com/

Monique Lhuillier: Hollywood glamour defined Monique Lhuillier's spring evening wear collection. Like Vera Wang, the half French/half Spanish Filipino designer got her start in fashion as a bridal couturier, creating dresses from fine silks, laces, and chiffons. Lhuillier's spring eveningwear offers the same exquisite elegance. Above-the-knee chiffon cocktail dresses in muted gold, black, and grey were cinched at the waist with bejeweled or dainty black patent belts. Lhuillier also added an innovative twist to traditional strapless and sleeveless dresses through her use of textured linen rafia bubbled hems. Even beautifully tailored pantsuits got glamorous on Lhuillier's runway with jewel-clasped gold belts. For the finale of her show, statuesque models floated down the runway in flowing 1940's inspired full-length gowns in silks and chiffons with plunging necklines and strapless bustier tops. Classic silhouettes and a sophisticated palette made Lhuillier's creations perfect for the red carpet as well as the runway. – Ana La O'

http://www.moniquelhuillier.com/

Ashish N Soni: After a solid New York Fashion Week debut in 2005, Ashish Soni returned to the Olympus runway with a cleaner, more sophisticated line that blended simplicity and drama. Architectural silhouettes and a neutral palette, featuring white, cream, black, grey, and gold, replaced the heavy layering and clashing patterns of Soni's previous spring collection. His models graced the runway in voluminous trapeze dresses as well as updated baby dolls in elegant muted grey and gold brocade prints. Shorts were also quite prominent in Soni's collection. While Soni paired crisp white shorts with flowing white tank tunics and eyelet peasant tops for sunnier days, he also took a more formal approach to the traditionally casual bottoms. Updating the suit, Soni paired tailored black shorts with assymetrical white button down dress shirts and little black jackets for a modern look. Soni's sophomore spring effort shows a more grown up, understated approach to springtime chic. -Ana La O'

http://www.ashishnsoni.com/

Published: Monday, October 9, 2006